Discovering Polska

Going Back

2009-01-18T06:18:00.000-08:00

I’m not sure how I feel about coming back. On the one hand I’m really excited to be back in the realm of familiarity, but on the other I’m a bit reluctant to see this brief, but intricately beautiful chapter in my life slowly vanish. It seemed like a dream, an exposure to a completely foreign world that I was allowed access to but for a brief second. Now all I have as proof of this time is the strength of my memory. I began to get emotional today while traveling through the various airports, trying to comprehend this transition from here to there. How will it feel to be placed back into the dizzying pace that is so characteristic of the American lifestyle? I have nearly forgotten my old life among the gentle, steady heartbeat of Kraków.

Extending My Stay

2009-01-06T16:26:00.000-08:00

I’ve decided to stay for two more weeks in Kraków. Just can’t seem to stay away…

Our Last Super

2008-12-19T19:46:00.000-08:00

We had our farewell dinner today at a restaurant called Wesele (wedding). It is hard to believe that time went by so fast…I know that there is still so much to explore within this beautiful country, if only I had the time. I looked around the table tonight at the people who experienced this journey with me through Polska (and beyond) and would not take back a single moment of it.

Zemsta: Revenge

2008-12-02T09:01:00.000-08:00

For one of our API cultural events we got to experience Polish theater through the comedy Zemsta (Revenge) by Count A. Fredro (a Polish Molière). Even though it was all in Polish, the actors had such good comedic timing that I was highly entertained throughout the whole show. The highlight of the show was when one of the characters pulled Emily out of her seat and dragged her out of the theater. Thankfully, she was returned safely seconds later, fully intact.

Polski śnieg!

2008-11-20T16:08:00.000-08:00

Vienna: Day Three

2008-11-16T08:39:00.000-08:00

We stayed at Hostel Ruthensteiner, a lively little place located not too far away from the city center. The front desk offered daily tours and we decided to take advantage of this opportunity to see the city through the eyes of a local. Our tour guide, who reminded me of Captain Hook, showed us his city with colorful commentary. Later that night before we boarded our train, we got to sample the famous Sachertorte.

Vienna: Day Two

2008-11-15T22:09:00.000-08:00

Today we went to the Imperial Treasury to see some of the crown jewels and let me just say the Habsburgs definitely owned some serious bling. Later on I went to visit the Sigmund Freud Museum, which was located in his former office/apartment. The museum was definitely one of the highlights of my trip, due to my fascination/borderline obsession with psychology.

Vienna: Day One

2008-11-14T02:35:00.000-08:00

Emily, Tiffany and I decided to go to Vienna over the long weekend, home to Mozart, Freud and The Sound of Music. We arrived early on Friday morning, when most of the city was still deep in slumber. We walked along the nearly-deserted streets, being exposed to a more subdued side of Vienna. We were lucky to have Tiffany who was basically fluent in German, to help us navigate our way through the elegant city .

A few hours later we went to the Spanish Riding School and got to see the Lipizzaner stallions during their morning training session. During the afternoon we went to the Albert Museum and saw an excellent exhibit on Picasso.

Budapest (Day 3)

2008-11-10T15:26:00.000-08:00

Today we explored the Buda hills, which were much more scenic than Pest and had amazing views of the Danube. Afterwards we went to explore the indoor market, where I experienced my first Hungarian goulash. Jó étvágyat!

Definitely a trip to remember.

Budapest (Day 2)

2008-11-09T13:02:00.000-08:00

No trip to Budapest is complete without a trip to the Turkish Baths. Dating back to when the Ottoman Turks invaded Hungary, these baths contain natural hot springs that are ideal for combating that imposing winter chill.

Capturing a rare group moment.

Afterwards, we went to the House of Terror, which was once the headquarters of the Hungarian Nazis and later the communists. This museum was very haunting and realistically brought the brutal terror regimes back to life. In the basement of the building was a prison where the Nazis used to torture and murder innocent victims. There was a giant Soviet tank in the middle of the museum and in the semi-darkness slick, black oil silently oozed off the sides of the base. It was very educational, but at the same time so devastating to witness and try to comprehend what mankind is capable of.

Budapest (Day 1)

2008-11-08T10:23:00.000-08:00

I once read an article about Budapest in one of my dad's Smithsonians. I've wanted to go there ever since. The author painted such a vivid picture of the city, of its beauty and rebirth from its communist past. Now finally I get to experience the magic of this city with my own eyes.

We took an overnight train to Budapest. I always find something magical about this land-based transition. Emily, Tiffany and I tucked ourselves into the cramped (yet cozy) sleeping quarters of our triple bunk. We made Emily sleep on the bottom bunk after she informed us about her sleepwalking tendencies.

Snug as a bug.

Since our train was late, for some reason beyond my comprehension, I decided to take that as a sign to sleep in. Big mistake. I was woken up by Piotrek bursting into our cabin announcing our arrival. Three seconds later, disheveled and dazed, I stumbled out of the train into the hazy Hungarian morning.

For breakfast I had "Hungarian-style" scrambled eggs, which consisted of red bell peppers, grated cheese, ham and the Hungarian staple PAPRIKA. Breakfast definitely hit the spot, even in my bewildered state.

Afterwards we had a tour of Pest, the industrial section of the city. Our tour guide referred to Budapest as the "Paris of the East," and it rang true due to the architectural style and wide avenue that ran down Pest, remnant of the Avenue des Champs- Élysées in Paris.

For dinner we were treated to an all-you-can-eat Hungarian restaurant called Trofea Grill. I think the restaurant was mainly occupied by customers who were celebrating special occasions, because we were the only group not celebrating a birthday or wedding. The food was excellent though and I especially enjoyed the paprika chicken.

The American Election 2008 (pt. 2)

2008-11-05T12:30:00.000-08:00

OBAMA HAS WON!!!

The American Election 2008 (pt. 1)

2008-11-04T12:19:00.000-08:00

http://images.chron.com/blogs/txpotomac/McCain%20and%20Obama%20shaking%20hands.jpg

The American election is taking place in that far away land I call home. Rumor has it that there is a record turn out for voters this year. It's hard to comprehend that Obama has made it this far. Who would have thought that a man with African blood could possibly be a presidential candidate?! I can honesty say now I am proud to be American.

All Saints' Day and All Souls' Day

2008-11-02T22:22:00.000-08:00

The two days after Halloween are All Saints' Day on November 1st and All Souls' Day on the 2nd. We visited Rakowicki Cemetery, which is the largest in Krakow. We arrived at dusk and there were thousands of candles illuminating the graves as far as the eye could see. Many families had come to pay respect to their loved ones that had passed on. Tonight was definitely a very moving and surreal experience.

Halloween Polska Style

2008-10-31T15:54:00.000-07:00

Since Halloween is an American Hallmark holiday, it was no surprise that it was non-existent in Krakow. We tried our best to be festive, dress up and of course consume a lot of sugar. And after a long and hard search we found a pumpkin that wasn't moldy and/or concave. Na zdrowie!

L to R: foreign policy, Punky Brewster and Rachel Ray.

Movie Night: Katyn

2008-10-27T14:16:00.000-07:00

from: pcecil.wordpress.com

Tonight we had our first movie night and were given the opportunity to view the film Katyn, directed by Andrzej Wajda.

In 1943, while fighting against the Soviet Union, German troops came across mass graves in the forest of Katyn in present-day Belarus. The Soviets denied accountability for this crime and instead blamed it on the Nazis. This incident remained taboo in Poland for decades, until 1990, when the Soviets finally admitted that they were guilty of the massacre.

Since I have been in Poland I have seen some good films (including others by the talented Wajda), but hands down this is my favorite so far.

On a lighter note we had a little surprise party for Emily, who turns 21 tomorrow! Wszystkiego Najlepszego!

Wieliczka Salt Mine

2008-10-19T13:20:00.000-07:00

It's amazing how a single mineral can produce such a multitude of artwork. This working mine has many chambers with various statues and monuments all constructed out of sodium chloride. There was even a large underground church where they hold classical music concerts occasionally. And I though salt was just for seasoning...

Auschwitz

2008-10-18T09:11:00.000-07:00

Today we went to Auschwitz. I think Nobel Peace Prize winner Elie Wiesel says it best in his acceptance speech:

"As long as one child is hungry, our life will be filled with anguish and shame. What all these victims need above all is to know that they are not alone; that we are not forgetting them, that when their voices are stifled we shall lend them ours, that while their freedom depends on ours, the quality of our freedom depends on theirs."

Please, if you are ever nearby, take the time to go to Auschwitz and educate yourself about this unfathomable moment in history.

Revisiting Communist Poland

2008-10-17T06:17:00.000-07:00

Today we took a step back with the tour company Crazy Guides, into the not so distant past and revisited Nowa Huta (New Steelworks). This town was created by the Communists near Krakow, in hopes of injecting industrialization into Polish society. Of course the dream never fully materialized and only resulted in labor strikes and creating poor health conditions due to the terrible pollution.

Crazy Guides specializes in giving tours of communist Poland and go all out on making sure that we got to experience Communism at its finest. We rode in a beat-up bus from that era that had definitely seen better days.

Later on we rode in an "authentic," Communist car. The whole experience felt like being in a cartoon, especially since the driver drove like a maniac.

For dinner we had a meal fit for a King (or Queen) of Poland at Pod Wawelem.

Zakopane

2008-10-11T13:35:00.000-07:00

Over the weekend we traveled to Zakopane, a popular Polish resort town, situated two hours from Krakow, in the shadow of the Tatra mountain range. As we drove deeper into the Polish countryside, I was exposed to a slower pace of life. It was a change from the hectic city life that I had been a part of and was refreshing to take in the simplicity of country life. The town itself was very quaint and reminded me of a small New England town. The leaves were in the middle of their fiery transformation and littered the cobblestone streets with color. After getting some nourishment we climbed to the top of one of the lower peaks of the Tatras.

Beginning our ascend...

Taking a much needed break.

At the top!

There were small patches of snow on the slope and I won the award hands down for taking the most spills.

Polska 101

2008-10-10T08:09:00.000-07:00

I'm glad that I had the freedom to choose classes in Poland based on elective credits, and not be restricted to my major requirements. The final courses I chose were:

The Holocaust: Research and Memory

Polish Contemporary Film

Sociology and Psychology of Terrorism

Polish Language: COMPLETE BEGINNER

Social Life Under Communism: The Polish Case

Ever since I saw the Holocaust course in the catalog back at home, I have been anxiously awaiting it. This atrocity plays such a large part in Polish history and I knew that if I took this course I would have a much better understanding of Poland as a whole.

Exploring the Dragon's Den

2008-10-08T09:04:00.000-07:00

Today I decided to take advantage of having a day off from classes and channeling my inner kid, decided to explore the legendary Dragon's Cave at Wawel Castle.

According to legend, there once was a terrible, fire-breathing dragon who inhabited a cave underneath the Wawel Castle. This monster beast would reek havoc on the townspeople and their livestock, seeing them only as tasty morsels. Prince Krakus (who the city is named after) wisely decided to throw a sheep's hide with sulfur into the cave. Long story short, the dragon exploded and the town was saved.

It's funny because they have a saying in Krakow. If you don't know the origin of something, make up a story for it.

The dragon is Krakow's "mascot," and is seen replicated endlessly in every tourist trinket imaginable. To access the cave is quite a workout, where you have to descend a narrow, winding staircase of approximately 135 steps. Afterwards you enter into a cluster of spacious caves. It was mostly frequented by tourists and large groups of school children, but I enjoyed it nonetheless.

Uniwersytet Jagielloński

2008-10-06T14:19:00.000-07:00

Today marks the beginning of my courses at Uniwersytet Jagiellonski. It was a bit intimidating stepping into the school building, with so many different languages colliding in the air. I kind of felt like the new kid in high school, who transfered junior year. Completely disoriented.

I got a bit lost on my way to class, but made it to Sociology and Psychology of Terrorism just in time. The classroom itself was very similar to the American ones I had been frequenting for the past three years. My professor was much more relaxed than I had anticipated, since I expected a more traditional teaching approach with a lecture hall and hundreds of students inhaling the professor's every word. Instead there was only around fifty students and our teacher treated us as equals, allowing discussion and questions.

Going Back in Time: Dining in 19th Century Poland

2008-10-03T05:10:00.000-07:00

If I were going to visit my grandmother's house in the 19th century-U Babci Mailny is exactly how it would look. An elderly woman, who was supposed to be "Babcia," greeted us at the door with a kind smile. I think her job was solely to sit in front of the restaurant and greet customers.

The food was ordered from the counter and there was a lengthy menu-except it was all in Polish. I ordered a plate of pierogies that were the easiest to pronounce and I'm still not sure what was in them.

Education Polski Style

2008-10-02T12:31:00.000-07:00

Today I met with my group to discuss academic procedures. Piotrek brought us to his office to explain formalities and then gave us a tour of all the locations our classes would be at. Classes had already started for Polish students, so we got to see a bit of university life play out before us. It was a strange dose of reality as I walked through those halls, knowing I would be attending classes here in less than a week...

Making Krakow Our Own

2008-10-01T12:13:00.000-07:00

We had a late start to our day because of some fridge problems, and I realized that our apartment's visual appearance was deceiving to its actual function.

We decided to venture over to Galeria Krakowska, another mecca for materialism. It was sad to see such commercialism imposing on the Old Town.

That evening, I had my first jazz club experience, since it is surprisingly popular here in Poland. The club was located in an underground cellar, which made the performance much more intimate and memorable. The music was very soothing and someone mentioned that it was "free jazz." The bass player was especially talented, and I enjoyed his solo improvisation.

Exploring Krakow

2008-09-30T11:39:00.000-07:00

The next day we ventured over to the closest mega mall-Galeria Kazimierz. It was exactly like the malls back home, but on steroids. On the way home I stopped by our local supermarket and had my first solo food shopping experience, which was both frightening and exhilarating at the same time. I bought some basic items such as mushroom soup, bread and yogurt. I would save the culinary adventures for another time.

In the afternoon we were given a guided tour of Krakow. We saw the oldest buildings of the Jagiellonian University, where Copernicus once studied long ago.

We passed by the former home of Pope John Paul II and saw the window where he would stand in front of every night when he was younger, to converse with the crowd of people that had gathered below.

Our last stop was Wawel, which included the Cathedral and the Castle itself, both magnificent works of art. Living in a town that had a castle just adds to the surreal feeling of living in Krakow.

Krakow, My New Home.

2008-09-29T12:11:00.000-07:00

The next morning, we took a scenic two-hour train ride to Krakow. We passed by the picturesque countryside, where cows and sheep speckled the landscape like wildflowers.

When I arrived in Krakow, our taxi drove through streets that were littered with trash and underpasses that had been covered in graffiti. Buildings with exposed brick and dull gray exteriors littered my neighborhood. This city was definitely aged.

Our apartment was on the first floor (which is actually the second) and had been completely remodeled, quite a contrast from the exterior. My house mates were Julian from France and Marie from Belgium (students from a different program) and Emily and Tiffany (from Wisconsin) who were in my program.

This is my room...not bad, huh?

After we unpacked and settled in our new abode, we were famished so we decided to explore our surroundings. We ended up in the Old Town and I got to experience Rynek Glowny (the main square) in all its glory for the first time. We came upon the main town square off one of the side streets and it took my breath away. And suddenly I was drawn in by the magical lure that Poland so skillfully exudes.

Sightseeing in Warsaw

2008-09-28T12:38:00.000-07:00

The next morning we were given the pleasure of a tour of Warsaw, by both bus and foot. Slightly still disoriented from jet-lag and culture shock, the tour was a complete blur to me.

What I do remember...

Lazienki Park, a serene hideaway from the city without actually leaving it. Among the many highlights of the park were the Chopin Monument and the bed of thousands of red roses that were in bloom.

The former Jewish Ghetto, with the Ghetto Heroes Monument in honor of all the victims that fell during the doomed uprising. Figures struggled out of the dark granite, trying to flee their oppressors who were barely more than outlines in the background. It was extremely powerful and completely overwhelming at the same time.

Sadly, Warsaw had been bombed so badly during WWII, only roughly fifteen percent remained afterwards. The Old Town which had been completely rebuilt, was architecturally stunning. In the New Town, (right next to the Old Town) was the house that Marie Currie grew up in. It was exciting for me since she has been a role model since I was a little girl.

At sunset, Piotrek brought us up to the top of the Palace of Culture and Science, the tallest building in Poland. From this new height it allowed us to take in Warsaw from a completely different perspective.

And I found a familiar face by the elevator...

A Dose of Polish Culture

2008-09-27T14:09:00.000-07:00

We were staying at the Hotel Gromada, which was situated in a pretty central location in the city. I met Emily one of my house mates from the Washington D.C. area.

We had our first meeting as a group at a local coffee shop and Piotrek gave an introduction to the logistics of the program. Some important information...

1) Polish people converse in public at a noise level of 4 (out of 10).
2) It is not typical to accept a drink from a stranger at a bar.
3) In a typical apartment you will find the washer in the bathroom. A dryer doesn't exist.
Time to wash clothes: 2 hours. Time to dry clothes: days.
4) "NEVER take a taxi that just says 'taxi,' because most likely it's a 'mafia taxi' (and they'll definitely rip you off)."

Afterwards, we went to a traditional Polish restaurant called Chlopskie Jadlo. Roughly translated the name meant "Peasant's Fare," and although the atmosphere was very inviting, the food was not. A platter of assorted traditional culinary delights such as golonka (jellied pig's knuckles) and various other mystery meats, soon appeared after our arrival. Seated directly in front of the platter, I could only force down a few pierogies, before succumbing to a spoiled appetite. I was not the only one who couldn't stomach the meal, because I found out later that Jack was a vegetarian. I had a lot to get use to....

Warsaw: First Impressions of Poland

2008-09-27T13:36:00.000-07:00

I arrived off the plane in Warsaw, and the whole world around me had transformed into a whirlwind of Polish culture. My excitement had overcome my jet-lag for the moment and I was in a daze as I came out of the arrivals gate, my mind trying to grasp the reality of the moment. I was finally here!

After a somewhat frustrating search, I finally found Piotrek (Piotr), my residential director, amidst a sea of families showering their loved ones with kisses and odd-numbered bouquets of roses.

Two other API participants Jack and Greg, joined us shortly and we all headed out into the mid-morning mist to take a cab to our hotel. A cab driver with a prominent potbelly took one look at our excessive amount of luggage and pointed to a van behind him. When we finally got into a vehicle that could accommodate us all, we made small talk but eventually grew quiet, as we took in the daily life of Warsaw that was unfolding around us.

Thoughts Beforehand

2008-09-26T04:46:00.000-07:00

Choosing to go to Poland seemed like a natural choice for me, when I was figuring out where I wanted to study abroad. I mused over exotic places like Egypt, South Africa, and Brazil, places that lured me in with promises of a life that was completely different than my own. But Poland held something greater, a chance to reconnect with my roots and return to a place where my paternal grandparents had fled the Nazi regime half a century ago. I had already been to China a few times now and I felt it was crucial to identify with my Eastern European roots and explore the culture that I had little exposure to. I was also very curious to gain a greater knowledge of the horrific events of WWII and how they fit into context within the country's psyche. So not knowing much more than "dziekuje" in Polish and a tiny snapshot of Poland's often turbulent history, I set off for the mysterious land of Polska.